Day 52

Here's the map for my last day's travels for this trip. It represents a long day's ride (570 miles), but at this point I was ready to avoid any stay in another motel. I have a very good friend, one Cindy Upson, who introduced me to the term "barnsour." The term has to do with the tendency for a horse to direct its travel back to the barn once the barn is in site after a long day's ride. It also describes my attitude on this, the last ride before I found my own "barn."

Though the map shows the first part of the ride as conducted on I-40, I assure you this was not the case! In fact, I was able to ride from Laughlin to nearly Barstow before being forced to take to the freeway (for almost a mile.) There is a "back way" out of Laughlin that took me to US95. I took US95 south to the intersection of old Highway 66. This route goes through the tiny towns of Essex, Cadiz and Amboy on "the old road."

Here is a picture of "the old road" as it descends from a high point west of its intersection with I-40 (the first time.) The small community of Amboy lies just barely visible at the bottom of the decline, and Amboy Crater is visible in the foreground to the left.

Amboy crater is an old volcanic cinder cone. The volcanism in this part of the desert died out long ago, but the evidence of its activity is still quite visible. There are lava flows plainly visible from the road as it passes Amboy Crater, as well as the Pisgah Crater farther to the west. There was a recent "eruption" of the Amboy crater, however.

Several years ago, an energetic group of young practical jokers trucked a load of old tires into the belly of the expired Amboy Crater. There, under the cover of darkness, they ignited the tires, turning them into incendiary toroids that belched forward thick black smoke.

In the morning, the word spread quickly that Amboy Crater was about to erupt! The smoky plume belching from the crater looked authentic enough to cause quite a stir among the desert inhabitants; some might has called it a mild panic. A team of locals ventured bravely out to the crater to investigate the pending conflagration. There, they found the burning tires, and the hoax.

The perpetrators of the gag were located, I understand, and citations were issued. I was told that "littering" was the charge. How accurately this story tracks with the reality of the incident, I'm not sure. I haven't investigated the story any farther than what I've told you here. I like the story just as it is.

In the "city" of Amboy travelers can still find a room and a hot meal at Roy's famous Hotel and Café. Roy's has been around for many years, though it's hard to say how many more years it might endure on a road that is more and more visited less and less. If you're traveling between LA and Laughlin in the future, I encourage you to take "the old road" and stop for a quick meal at Roy's. They'll treat you well.

This last photo of the trip is a sign in front of Roy's that indicates its participation in the preservation of the historic Route 66. It is fitting that this trip, and these notes, should end with this sign. It was my exploration of old Route 66 five years ago that kindled my interest in the old US highway system in the first place. My interest in US50 stems from my observation that it is still almost entirely intact, whereas Route 66 has been completely decommissioned. Might the same fate befall US50? Maybe.

The US Highway System is still largely available, though (as my writings should have indicated to you) it is rapidly shrinking. The old highways still connect the real heart of America, taking travelers to interesting places rather than taking them around them. This trip was my "research" into the health of the old system. I've found the old network of roads to be available, in good repair, and worthy of the attention of any traveler interested in learning more about this great country. In other words, I encourage all readers of these pages to take some time to investigate the bounties of the old roads, while they are still there.

I've spent just 52 days in this exploration, and I can tell you with certainty the trip has changed my life. I have met many people, heard some wonderful stories, and found a wealth of history just waiting for any one interested in seeking it. Seek it for yourself, and see if it won't change you, as well.

Updated 9/23/97 by Robert Farrell Email me

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